Tassajara (June 24-26) and the New Month at Great Vow Monastery

Tassajara Zen Mountain Center

Tassajara Zen Mountain Center was fascinating. It was the first, and now oldest, Zen monastery in the U.S. Tucked away in the Ventana mountains near Big Sur, Tassajara squeezes into a valley along gorgeous mineral springs and hiking trails. They dedicate the winter months to practice periods for the monks and nuns in residence but open up their doors to visitors during the summer guest season. During the guest season, monks and nuns work more and sit zazen less. Guests have the option of joining in on work and zazen for a discounted rate, while others just enjoy themselves without touching a broom or sitting on a cushion.

Tassajara has its own gender-divided, but clothing optional baths (springs, hot tubs, sauna, plunge, and pool) which attracts many of the guests. Tassajara is also famous for their organic, vegetarian meals. Since the Tassajara Bread Book released decades ago, people have been drawn to Tassajara for the delicious full-course meals. While I was there I ate dishes like mung dhal with home-made naan, eggplant lasagna with local greens and home-baked baguettes. The desserts were killer: blueberry cornbread with whipped cream, ginger cheesecake . . . you get the picture. Tassajara is also off the grid, so most of the rooms are lit with kerosene lanterns. The dim ambiance from these lamps, in the dining room or in the cabin, overshadows (or perhaps under-shadows) their ironically less sustainable use of energy. Overall, the working staff was extremely courteous and kind. I made friends immediately. From their aprons, to the made beds, to the tablecloth, the straight-laced, 90-degree-angle aesthetic of Zen neatness laced elegantly throughout this quasi-resort atmosphere. They’ve also had decades to make it work.

The efficiency and resilience of their system was also impressive. The turnover rate at Tassajara is high with a lot of people staying just a week or weekend, fewer staying for a few months, fewer a few years, and then perhaps a dozen or so that have been there beyond 5 years. They’ve mastered the art of hospitality as well as shuffling people in and out.

What aroused my curiosity was that many had little experience with Zen practice before they jumped into a long summer of hard work and zazen (Zen meditation). Of course, some were well-seasoned in the sutra literature, the principles of practice, and the history of Zen. It has also been traditional in Zen to throw people into the deep-end of practice and to let one’s rational understanding follow and flow from experiential understanding, whereas with most things in a culture of maps, manuals, and cookbooks, we do it the other way around . . . However, at least in my experience, the frequent problem with Zen is that one practices his or her misunderstanding over and over again, without being corrected. A close relationship with a teacher is necessary to make sure one isn’t, say, repressing all their thoughts . . . trying to not think. I don't know if this is a problem at Tassajara though.

I’d be interested to know more about the internal teaching structure of Tassajara; they may very well check against this. For resident students, they have weekly classes and routine small discussion groups with senior students. They also bring in a lot of visiting teachers as guest lecturers. While I was there, a Zen teacher named Daigaku Sensei held an introductory workshop to traditional calligraphy and gave a lecture on the meaning of “work practice” (more or less, working as a form of meditation). Their library was also pretty impressive. It was only a couple rooms, but I could find almost any title on Buddhism or Eastern philosophy that I could think of. Certainly students have access to readings, although they may not have the time to go through with it. They spend roughly 6-8 hours a day working on top of morning and evening periods of zazen. But that’s the life! It disciplines one’s mind, forces you to make priorities, conserve and use your energy wisely, and, most importantly, work with others and your self in a selfless way that doesn’t dwell excessively on individual thoughts or concerns. I’ve often found it difficult transitioning into and out of environments like this, but once you’re in, there’s a new strength, courage, vitality, and focus in daily activities.

Great Vow Monastery

That’s the lifestyle I’ll more or less be living for the next month at Great Vow Monastery, a Zen training monastery where I experienced my first retreat two years ago. I naturally have a lot of hopes and fears, as I’ll be leaving to arrive there within the next hour. I won’t dwell on them too much right now, and will (hopefully) be updating my blog about the details a little more when I actually get there. I will be there for the whole month of July. If you are interested in knowing what the summer training practice is all about, the website says it much clearer than I can: http://www.greatvow.org/summerworkexchange_readmore.htm

The daily schedule is pretty rigorous!

Regular Schedule
3:50 Wake-up Bell
4:20 Zazen
6:20 Service
6:45 Temple Cleaning
7:30 Breakfast
9:00 Work Period
12:00 Service
12:15 Informal Lunch
2:00 Work Period (with possible Exercise/Art period)
5:20 Service
5:30 Dinner
7:20 Zazen
9:20 Evening Chants
10:00 Lights Out - Closing rounds

Work might include gardening, cooking, washing dishes, cleaning, or office work; we’ll see what I get assigned.

If you’re interested in sending me mail, the monastery’s address is:
PO Box 368
Clatskanie, OR 97016

I’ll have weekly access to the internet. My time off is Sunday evening and Monday, so that would be the best time for me to talk on the phone. I can call at nights and on breaks, but would really prefer not to. Call me any time and leave a message, and I’ll try to call you back on my off-time.

Wish me luck!